| Аннотация / Abstract |
[RUS]
В статье рассматриваются японские костюмные комплексы второй половины ХІХ – первой трети ХХ столетия в контексте военной истории. Автором показано влияние реформ Мэйдзи и идеологии 1930-х годов на развитие военной тематики в текстиле и аксессуарах, выявлена типология орнаментов, используемых в кимоно изучаемого периода.
[ENG]
The article considers the Japanese suite of the second half of the XIXth – the first third of the XXth century in the context of military history. Due to the results of the semantic analysis ornamental motives aligned with military operations were found out. The comparative and visual stylistic analysis made it possible to determine that until the XXth century the military theme in traditional suits of clothes was poorly represented. There are individual elements of decoration which set up associative links with heroes of by-gone times. Reorientation of furbishers from swords and armor manufacturing to production of accessories promoted development of military topics in suits of clothes.
Under the Taisho and until the Second World War military topics took a major place in design development. We can stand out a variety of typological motives used in men's, women's and children's kimonos. The most commonly encountered among them are: "Japanese aviation", "military weaponry", "three soldiers", "heroes of Port Arthur", national symbols (kimigaio, khi-no maru, chrysanthemum), Momotaro, Yoshitsune and Benkei, samurai helmets and swords.
Along with generalized hero characters and military symbolic the concrete episodes were used in kimono decoration and that turned it into an expanded text. Among them there are images of sinking Russian squadron, successful attacks, Japanese soldiers on the Great Wall of China, and greetings of "Japanese liberators" by locals. A lot of pictures and images were taken from newspapers, post cards, lithographic pictures, posters or approach them in the sense of artistic language.
The ideals of military class, where the readiness to give away life without hesitation was valued above all, proved to be useful in the process of unification of the nation in order to free and emancipate Asia and to build up a co-prosperity sphere. Appearance of patriotic patterns in kimono is determined by the powerful ideological propaganda; however this propaganda was supported by the citizens, who were inspired by real achievements of Japan.
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